Category Archives: Moisturizer

Skin Discipline

Getting great skin is like raising a child; you need equal doses of discipline and TLC.

For skin, discipline means exfoliation. This is important because your skin is constantly shedding dead layers and building new cells deep in the dermal layer. The older you get, the slower this regenerative process becomes. There are three types of exfoliation that you can do at home, and professionally as well:

1.) Massage – Unless your skin is acne prone or very sensitive, massaging with the products you use to “nurture” your skin (think moisturizers, serums and Cleansing Oils!), is a form of exfoliation.

The proper technique for facial massage is as follows:

Forehead… Begin in the middle of the forehead making small circular movements out towards the temples. Repeat 5 times.

Eyes… From your temples, glide your index fingers over your brow and circle your eye sockets. The pressure should be very light. Repeat twice.

Nose… Slide your fingers down each side of your nose to the tip and up again. Repeat 5 times. End at the top of the mouth.

Mouth… Use your index and middle fingers and start at the chin, gently massage in a circular and upward motion around the mouth and lips. Bring the massage motion to the top of the mouth, under the nostrils. Repeat 5 times.

Cheeks… In a circular motion, massage outward from your chin to your earlobes, from the corners of your mouth to the middle of your ears and from your nostrils to your temples. Repeat twice, covering the whole area of the cheek.

Chin… Begin on your right where the jaw meets your ear. Using your thumb and index finger, gently slide across the jaw to your chin. Massage back to the starting point with circular motions. Repeat on the left side. Repeat 3 times each side.

Neck… Beginning at the back of the neck, massage upwards to the head with small circular motions. Repeat 5 times. Come around to the front of the neck and gently stroke upwards from the collarbone to the base of the chin. Repeat 3 times.

2.) Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) –

AHAs have been used for thousands of years, Cleopatra was said to have bathed in sour milk (lactic acid) to improve her skin tone.

They are typically derived from food products. Don’t let the word acid throw you off.  They are classified scientifically as acids, because of their ability to penetrate the skin. They dissolve the “glue” that holds the superficial layers of the skin together.

You’ll find AHAs in the Isles of Beauty, in skincare clinics or prescribed by doctors in the form of moisturizers, cleansers, serums and masks. You can use them at home or have professional treatments.

I like Tu’els Glyco-A Gel and Crystal C Serum; they have multiple AHA’s to exfoliate, brighten, strengthen, as well as calm the complexion.

3. Scrubs – This family of exfoliants clean up dead skin cells on the skin’s surface. I like Tu’el Peeling Cream a manual microdermabrasion product. Be careful with this family of products though; use sparingly and massage lightly – more is not better.

Exfoliation can be done up to 5 times per week, or until the skin manifests the desired effects. Use different forms of exfoliation, give your skin “time off” and don’t use the same products for prolonged periods – results diminish.

All exfoliants stimulate new cell growth deep in the skin, but they also create free radicals and break the skin down.

A word of caution – don’t use resurfacers or get peels unless you are willing to use an appropriate sunscreen religiously,as well as a nurturing regime to combat the challenges resurfacing presents to the skin.

Most of this post is applicable for “normal skin”. People with clinical grade acne, history of melanoma, extreme sensitivity, any skin disease like rosacea, or those who are under the care of a physician should consult a professional and proceed with caution.

Moisturizers, antioxidant serums, soothing masks, and peptides are a few of the nurturing products that are necessary when you are serious about caring for your skin.

Get a plan for loving the skin your in.

See you at the spa!

You Get The Skin You Care For

So, you’ve heard me say before that you have the skin you’ve inherited until about 30, and then  you have the skin you deserve after that. Which means, beautiful skin doesn’t happen naturally (just like the body!). So, what are the top 5 things to guarantee a great complexion?

1.) Find an esthetician that you can visit at least seasonally. Facials are a real boost to the health of the skin and a good way to get professional feedback on how your skin is doing and what it needs more or less of. Your esthetician will also get you hooked up with the best products to use for your skin.  Remember: Your skin is always changing, so what you use should change as well. There are seasonal changes that all skin types experience, and personal changes and stressors that are unique to you. Even if your skin is so problematic that you need a doctors help, that’s no excuse to neglect caring for it at home.

2.) Use great products even if this is a low priority or you have limited resources, there are some key product that really are a must. Let me tell you about a few of my secret weapons:

Facial sunscreen – — USE THIS DAILY! In other words, don’t let UV Radiation hit your face without protection (UVA penetrates glass), and keep some in your purse (pocket) for prolonged exposure. In case you’re wondering, the numbers on the bottle don’t mean much; the use of them is unregulated. What does mean something is “full spectrum coverage.” Zinc Oxide is the key ingredient for achieving that.  Not to give you a science lesson, but Zinc Oxide is what lifeguards used to wear before they developed a clear formula.  (Remember that thick white stuff that covered their t-zones?) It’s an important ingredient because it is natural. You don’t have to get it full strength (bit much) but try to get a sunscreen with Zinc Oxide as an active ingredient.

Moisturizer with Sodium Hyaluronate – Sodium Hyaluronate is a polysaccharide  found in the extracellular matrix of our connective tissue.  It is a tissue lubricant that holds over 100 times it’s weight in water.  (Ok. That was REALLY a science lesson.) As we age, this ingrediant needs to be supplemented. Bottom line? Don’t use a moisturizer without Sodium Hyaluronate as one of the top ingredients. The product I recommend is Advance by Serum from DermaQuest. It contains  40% Hyaluronic Acid. Don’t worry!  It doesn’t act like an acid (burn), it is called an acid because of its molecular size and thus, its ability to penetrate the surface of the skin.

Use a foundation everyday – Before mineral makeup came on the scene I could not get my staff (at the Spa in MN), to put makeup on women after a facial, because they didn’t want to “clog the pores”. Mineral makeup doesn’t clog pores, but not all mineral makeup is created equal. I  carry Youngblood Mineral Makeup,which also has an SPF value.  Some of the minerals reflect UV, some absorb it. When wearing mineral makeup, getting a good match is key. Using it daily is also important because the enviroment stresses the skin and mineral makeup soothes and protects it. It calms redness, conceals “spots”, and evens skin tone. It is also not a comedigenic (acne feeding) makeup.

Note: Get a small concealer brush to apply minerals under and on top of the eye area before using shadow. It adds extra  UV protection and conceals redness and dark circles.

So now that you know about some great products to care for your skin, what are the remaining three ways to guarantee a great complexion?

3.) Eat right

4.) Exercise

5.) Drink plenty of water

See you at the spa!

Photo courtesy of Google Images.

Best Facial Moisturizer Ingredient

blogWe all want gorgeous skin right? Read on, you’ll be glad you did ;).

The most important ingredient in a moisturizer is an ingredient known as: hyalurnan, sodium hyaluronate or hyaluronic acid (HA). This is a natural substance which is found in all living organisms and is the main component of the connective tissue in the human body.

Our favorite product with this ingrediant is Hydrate XS 1000. 🙂

HA can hold moisture at 1,000 times its molecular weight, which is more than any other natural substance.

HA is involved in tissue repair. When skin is excessively exposed to UVB rays, it becomes inflamed, causing sunburn. The cells in the dermis stop producing as much HA, and increase the rate of its degradation. Topical use helps hydrate the skin and reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

Oily skin benefits from this substance as well, as the skin may be “water dry” and have some compromised barrier integrity or imbalance.

Watch labels to make sure your moisturizer contains it. It is great for all skin types, and as I like to call it “underwear”  because it goes on under sun protectant during the day, and under serums, creams and other preparations at night.

A sister product to Hydrate XS 1000 is Triple Splash

It hydrates, tones and improves skin elasticity, they are both by Tu’el. This company was founded by Eva Friederichs who is one of the founding mothers of the professional skincare industry. Hydrate XS 1000 has been a #1 seller for 20 years with this company – long before it was discovered by consumers or even skincare industry professionals. Here is what Lori, daughter of Eva Friederichs,  and president of Eva’s Esthetics today, has to say:

My favorite product

“I love this particular body product!!! Yes, three exclamations.  Why do I love it so much?  Absolutely, nothing comes close to how it makes my skin feel when I use it UNDER my body lotion.  This may seem like too many things to put on, but we skin techie’s get quite skilled at layering.  The interesting part is that the active ingredient is Sodium Hyaluronate which is the same ingredient in Hydrate XS 1000.

Another thing I really like is that since it is in a water base I can add my pure essential oil to it (about 5 drops to the 8 ounce bottle) and this essential oil becomes my very own perfume. Because it is a water solution the best way to apply it is directly after your shower.  Get out, towel dry and apply the Triple Splash.  Be sure to do all parts like the undersides of your arms into your arm pits, which is an area that especially shows dehydration or age.  Pump some into one hand and just bring it over to the area you are applying and rub in.  Do your entire body and then layer your body lotion directly over that.  No need to let it dry.  You will actually use less body lotion.

I travel a lot which is really hard on the skin and so dehydrating. I promise you, this is one item I never leave home without.”

– Lori Nestore

Triple SplashWhat’s in Triple Splash?

Aqua (Purified Water), Methyl Gluceth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, Hydrolyzed Protein, SodiumHyaluronate, Eucalyptus Oil, Polysorbate-20, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Lactic Acid.

See you at the spa!